Only in Hong Kong – One Volume: High

In my first 2 weeks in HK, i experienced terrible headaches and was irritable during the day.  Panadol provided little relief and visits to the doctor resulted in a clean bill of health.  Then I started paying attention to what was causing all the headaches and it was all the noise around me.  Noise came in the form of people shouting down their handphones, roadworks going on daily, 10,000 conversations happening at the same time in a restaurant, impatient honking from buses, cars, trams etc.  To add to it all, the cantonese language is spoken quickly, sharply, crudely and staccato-like (imagine a louder version of the morse-code).  It may be capable of being melodious like French (e.g.) but it remains to be heard. 

It baffled me the first time I passed a couple of women shouting at each other.  I got worried that the argument could turn violent until they both suddenly laughed.  Or the time, the guy next to me on the escalator, whipped out his handphone and started shouting into it.  It’s possible that the other person could hear him even without the handphone!  The conversations are often spirited and somewhat aggressive, hence to non-local residents it sounds like an argument.

After 17 months, I’ve adjusted to the noise -level but when I first arrived, it was quite a shock to the system.  To say that I was not used to the noise is an understatement, my ear was buzzing from the high volume and I thought I was losing my hearing.  I dread to think that as part of the adjustment, my speak volume has increased.

Only in Hong Kong – Giving way

Over the weekend, a couple of observations made me think about starting up an entry on what’s typical of HK.  I’ve stayed here for 17 months and it may interest others to know what to expect if they are planning to visit / live in HK, hence this tag.  I’ll keep adding to this list as it strikes me.

First observation of HK is that people rarely give way to others.  In fact they push their way through, expecting others to give way.  Imagine this - standing at a pedestrian crossing, waiting for the lights to change and across the road, is a crowd waiting for the same thing.  The minute the lights change, both sides will come towards each other and it’s a case of the first person to “blink” will give way to the stampeding crowd.  If neither side gives way, there will be a stand-off and each will grumble that the other should given way.  

HK being so small, that the only way it can move forward, literally and figuratively is for its residents to cooperate.   Unfortunately the general observation is that most people behave like their interest is more important than others, expecting others to understand and be considerate to them.

 

Jazz in HK

Being a jazz lover, one of the first things i did when I arrived in HK was to search out for a good jazz club. The choices are limited and most were concentrated in HK Island.  I did find one New Orleans- type jazz diner cum live band in Tsim Sha Tsui – Ned’s Kelly. I’d written about this place in earlier post.

On Friday, I was at the West Kowloon Waterfront Promenade by chance. It was the opening gala for the HK Wine and Food Festival. There were many stalls showcasing wines and food and loads of people. But my ears picked up the sounds of jazz and was estatic to find it was live. The featured artist on was Hanjin Tan. I stayed for his hour-long show and it was toe-tapping, fingers-drumming enjoyment. I like his brand of improv jazz, putting his own twist to classics.  This for me is the best kind of pure jazz – unplugged version with just the voice, accompanied with bass, guitar and piano.  This way the focus is on the voice, which in Jazz is the key element of the music.  There are very few asian jazz artist, maybe because jazz is very much a western concept.  He hit all the right tones and carried the tunes well. 

Here’s a Youtube video of him in-motion:

Autumn is finally here

She’s late but welcomed no less.  Temperatures has been falling ever so slightly these few days and today, it was below 30′c the whole day.   While walking home earlier, I felt a cool breeze and that’s when I realised that Autumn had arrived.  Meteorologically Autumn starts in September, so she is a month late!  In fact we celebrated Mid-Autum Festival last weekend, still in the heat of summer.

Of the 4 seasons, Autumn is the BEST of them all because we get the coolness without the humidity, hardly any rainfall and no need for the heaters.

Introduction to Sailing

On a whim, I decided to sign up for an introductory course on sailing.  This happened just this past weekend of Oct 3rd and 4th.  I was initially unsure if I would go, owing to possible jetlag from the long-haul trip.  In fact, maybe it was a little ambitious as I returned on Friday night and would need to wake up at 6am the next day, to make the long trip to the venue.  I didn’t sleep on Friday night, not sure whether from jetlag or from excitement.

The course is organised by the HK Government’s Leisure and Cultural Dept and because it is subsidised by the Government,  it was only HKD180 for the 2 days.  This is another example of Wonderful HK, where we actually enjoy the benefits of paying taxes.  During the course of 2 days, we learnt how to set up our dingy (its called a Topper) – a single man boat, how to manage it, rules of the road and got alot of practise.  I liked that we got a chance to practise everything that was taught.  Day 1 was interesting as we learnt the basics.  In the afternoon, we got a chance to get into the dingy and sail.  Thankfully the wind was low and although we didn’t get to go very fast, it made it easier to manage.  

Day 2 was more painful, owing to the stronger winds.  The thing about sailing especially on non-powered boats, you really are at the mercy of the winds.  I tried reassuring myself that, it’s just like learning to drive but that is so inaccurate.  When driving a car, you are mostly in control but with sailing, the winds can be as unpredictable as emotions during PMS!  Maybe with experience, I may be able to anticipate changes in wind direction and force and this will allow me to have more control over the boat but for a beginner, I really struggled to remain onboard!

Throughout the practise session, most of the time was spent reacting to changes in wind force, trying to remember all the principles that I’d learnt, leaning out over the edge to act as a balance to the boat (that part was fun), always mindful of the boom  in case it swung unexpectedly etc.  As with most things in life, confidence makes a difference and I did not have the confidence to manage in the strong winds.  It was unfortunate that I’d capsized during an attempt to make a right turn (also called a Gybe).  I’m not sure what happened except that I was thrown off the boat and the boat turned upside down.   This meant that its bottom was facing the sky and the sail was in the water.  We had been taught how to right the boat, if it capsized and I tried with all my might to turn it over but it didn’t budge.  I got weak from my failed attempts and finally had to wave for help.  The instructor had to come to help me right it and it took alot of strength because the sail was in the water.  I didn’t have the strength to lift myself up onto the boat, after it was righted and had to be pulled up by the instructor.  While floating in the sea waiting for help, I had a thought that if I was alone I couldn’t give up and ask for help.  At the same time, I felt hopeless in the situation and thought as a last resort, I would abandon ship and swim back to shore.

Overall the experience was quite intense and I’ve decided that sailing is more fun when it is done in a team.  I found it very physically demanding to manage alone.  It does require alot of strength to be able to lift the boat and fit all the parts together and of cause, when righting a capsized boat.  From the emotional aspect, sailing alone is not much fun.  Firstly, your full attention is on managing the boat that you don’t see any of the beautiful surroundings.  Secondly, if you do get a chance to view a beautiful scenery, you have no one else to share it with. 

Prepared Toppers waiting to be sailed. Because of the strong winds, the sails had to be shortened so that it caught less wind

Sunday morning Yum Cha

Chanced upon this makeshift shop selling dim sum, in Choi Hung.  The shop had no name but it was obviously popular judging by how packed it was.  Funnily enough, most of the customers were elderly people.  This scene was to me what I thought old-HK would be like, casual dining in the park. 

Early morning Yum Cha session in-progress

Clothes do not maketh the Man

A compelling observation: 

I observed this well-dressed man, complete with suit and shining shoes, talking on the phone, while seated at a dining table.  A waitress was clearing tables and came to his table.  She picked up the only piece of newspaper on the table and walked away, intending (I think) to throw it away.  Suddenly, the well-dressed man shouted at her, using crude language to tell her to return that piece of newspaper.  As she returned it, he continued to scold her for taking his ‘thang’ without asking him first.  I guess I was surprised at (1) the need for such crude and rude behaviour on a seemingly harmless action, and (2) such crude and rude behaviour from a well-dressed person. 

It made me consider how we often form first impressions on visual presentation, when it is quite possible to dress well and yet have no manners.

An example of HK Flats

Saw this online ad for a studio flat for rent. When i first read the post, i couldn’t imagine how it was able to fit the toilet, kitchen and the bedroom.

• Sq Ft is 200 (by the way, this is gross, so net usable space is probably only 100!).
• Comes fully furnished – bed, dining table, TV, cupboard and standard fittings.
• Location – Caine Road, HK Island
• Monthly rent – HKD 4,300 (this is reasonable, given the location)

Take a look at the picture and you’ll get an idea of how small it is.

Would you eat and shit in the same place?

Cheating the poor

Among the many news in The Standard, this one really tugged at me for obvious reasons. Incidentally, i’ve seen the scrap collectors “watering” their pile of scrap paper and initially didn’t understand the reason. That is until a friend explained that it was to increase the weight. 

When I first arrived in HK, I was sad to see elderly people, collecting scrap paper or rummaging through dustbins for tin cans.  And then I was amazed that at their old-er age, they were still healthy and able to carry / push this heavy trolley, laden with all kinds of odds and ends.   I’ve shared my observation with afew local friends and some are visibly embarrassed at this negative perception of HK.  While some were emphathetic that this is an unfortunate “by-product” of cosmopolitan HK, where its high cost of living has required that some elderly people would need to support themselves, through any means possible.   Don’t get me wrong, I don’t see anything wrong in collecting scraps… it’s an honest living.  What I am sad about, is that at their old-er age, these popos (Grandmas) and kungkung (Grandpas) should be spending their retirement, relaxing and not having many cares / worries. 

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 

Clampdown on scrap paper cheats

Unscrupulous scrap paper dealers are using faulty scales to cheat scavengers – mostly women and the elderly – out of the little money they make.

Beatrice SiuThursday, May 07, 2009

Unscrupulous scrap paper dealers are using faulty scales to cheat scavengers – mostly women and the elderly – out of the little money they make.  Customs officers, who uncovered the scam, have begun a clampdown on the cheats.  In recent weeks, six people have been fined sums ranging from HK$2,000 to HK$5,000, while 10 more cases are being processed.

The Society for Community Organization’s Sze Lai-shan accused the scrap dealers of being “heartless” as most of the scavengers were women or the elderly, trying hard make a little extra money to support their families or pay medical expenses.

From late 2008 to last month, officers of the Customs and Excise Department made surprise checks at scrap shops in Kwun Tong, Ngau Tau Kok, North Point and Kwai Chung and found several scales had been manipulated to under-weigh scrap paper by 10 to 38 percent, according to the department’s Consumer Protection Bureau deputy chief Wong Yiu-cheung.  Wong said the defective equipment had been seized after verification, in addition to the fines.  Customs received 168 complaints since 2007, with 14 cases successfully prosecuted.

A source familiar with the recycling sector said cheating is common, with at least 60 to 70 percent of the traders being involved in the practice.  One reason for this was the reduced demand for recycled paper, prompting traders to begin underweighing to make up the shortfall, the source said.  Some of the sellers were also to blame as they sprayed water on the scrap paper to increase the weight, the source added.  Wong reiterated that traders should not use fraudulent scales as it was against the law.  He suggested they could, instead, refuse to buy scrap paper from sellers they suspect were trying to cheat them. He said Customs had stepped up spot checks and would continue to take stringent enforcement action against errant traders.

Under the ordinance, any person who possesses, manufactures, supplies or uses false or defective weighing or measuring equipment for trade can be fined up to HK$20,000 and be imprisoned for six months.

Yeung Shun-kwai, 76, said she began trading in scrap paper after her husband died three years ago. She now earns about HK$20 a day compared with around HK$80 a day last year, since the price of scrap paper has fallen to just 50 cents a kilogram.

HK – moving from Spring to Summer

It’s a long weekend in HK, as yesterday was Labour Day. The weather is getting hotter, in anticipation for summer, which is due any time soon.  However today’s weather was just perfect… for me, at least.  It was bright with hardly any clouds, a little warm but with a cool breeze blowing.  It was very nice to be outdoors.  

I visited Kowloon Walled City and walked along Tsim Sha Tsui’s Promenade to enjoy the lovely day.  

Mock-up of Kowloon City in its village days

 

Taken from Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade, HK Island is across the harbour