Macau

 

Recently, I had the pleasure of spending time in Macau for work and got a chance to know more about this small SAR state.  It is not very large in size, approximately 29.2 sqkm, by comparison to HK – 1,108 sqkm.  It used to be made up of Macau Peninsula + 2 islands, Taipa and Coloane, but the area between Taipa and Coloane was reclaimed and is now known as Cotai strip (on which sits the Venetian Macau).  On my previous trip to Macau, I did not spend enough time to  get to know the place and was better prepared this trip.  I had several items on my wish-list and have ticked them all off. 

1) Food – For reasons unknown to me, I had this impression that Macanese and Portugese food is very tasty.  So during my visit, I actively sought out Macanese and Portugese food.  The conclusion was not as expected… I was disappointed by the Macanese and Portugese food. Instead of dwelling on the not-so-nice, here are some of the food / places that I am able to recommend from experience:

• Serradura – This is a Macanese Dessert, made from vanilla whipped cream and biscuit crumbs.  It is lip-smacking-licious.  A must-try.  You can find it at most bakeries, but the one sold at Grand Lapa Macau (formerly Mandarin Oriental Macau) is just nice, the right texture and sweetness.  You will want more than one but remember it is mostly cream.

A very yummy dessert, found in Macau

• Grilled Afrikan Chicken (Macanese) – taste something like Nando’s chicken, only better. 
• Afonso III, Rua Central, Macau Peninsula (Portugese) – It is a quaint, family-run restaurant, with a limited menu.  The food was fresh and tasty and quite affordable (in the range of MOP 70 to 180 for mains).  Portions are large, so sharing may be necessary.
• Le Bonne Heure, Travessa S. Domingos, Macau Peninsula (French) - by a French chef.  I haven’t had much french food, so won’t comment how authentic it is.  From the taste perspective, it was good.  Price was affordable for the portion size.

2) Sights – It is easy to walk about Macau, I guess because it is small there is no risk of getting lost.   Free maps are easily available at the ferry terminal and hotels.  You may even find street maps in touristy areas.  I found the following places, worth a visit:

•  Macau Tower - I forget how tall it is but tall enough that you can see the whole of Macau Peninsula and most of Taipa and Coloane.  In fact, I was able to see across the border into China.  For no reasons, I was in awe of my first view of China ! 
• Taipa Old Village – It is quite possible that I didn’t actually find the old village and instead found the village that was made to look old.  This is the original Taipa village before all the constructions.  Most of the streets are narrow, able to fit one vehicle at a time.  The buildings are not very tall, mostly 2 storey.  This is as close as I could get to experiencing the original village.
• Senado Square and St Paul’s ruins – I’ve written about this in a previous blog entry, from my first visit.  The view of St Paul’s ruin never fails to make me qawk everytime. 
• Water fountain at Wynn Casino - I found this a wonderfully unique feature, from all the other casinos around it.  It is a musical fountain that sways to the sound of music.  The first time I saw it, it literally took my breath away… the waves were so graceful, almost human-like in movement and as-if to make a point, the climax in the music was accompanied by fire being shot about a meter high. 

3) Interesting snippets I picked up:

• Grand Lisboa – this is the updated, grander version of Stanley Ho’s Lisboa Hotel and Casino.  It is quite an interestingly shaped building.  At night, the whole building lights up with neon words flashing across it.  When I first looked at the structure from far, I thought it looked like a pineapple.  But my observation was corrected by a local who explained that it is actually shaped like a Brazilian Headdress.  I laughed when I was first told, it’s quite a mouth-full and who would have guessed!
• Portugese Language- Although Portugal colonised this state for a long time and gave it over to China in 1999, we hardly heard any portugese being spoken.  There is however, a Portugese language radio channel, road sign and establishment signs are in Portugese but that is all.
• Macau PR and Citizens pay no income taxes.  In addition to that, they all receive a bonus from the Government every year.
• Retail prices in Macau are similar to HK, which I thought is rather high for a small state.  The only consolation is rent is substantially lower, thus making it affordable for the locals. 

Photolog: Venetian, Macau

Inside Venetian's Retail area, made to look like a street in Venice. In case you're wondering, the "sky" is painted onto the ceiling

Sunset view of the canals, outside Venetian. For some reason, the sky was pink that evening… this is natural.

Observations and other’s opinions

During lunch, the conversation veered towards the Chinese people… this was an opportunity for me to learn / understand them better.  It started because someone explained that having spent time in China and being married to one (which qualifies him to comment), he explained that outwardly, the Chinese appear compliant to authority but inwardly, they are crafty and always finding ways to beat the system for personal gain.  My assumption was that as they have been under Communist rule for so long, I imagined that the authoritarian rule would ensure its people are disciplined and obediant.   

My asumption was corrected when he explained his observation, which is that while the world is given this image that the Chinese people love their country, the reality is different.  The Chinese are aware of the “truth” that happens in their government but as long it does not affect them personally, they do not have an opinion about the matter.  It is only when it affects them personally that they would be motivated to correct the injustice they have suffered.   I got the impression that everyone is for him/herself, which I find contradicts with my assumption of communism. 

My first real opportunity to observe and form an opinion of the Chinese was during my recent visit to Macau.  Unfortunately it was not a kind impression - I checked into a 5 star hotel and was greeted by the smell of smoke.  Several guest were smoking liberally, despite there being conspicuous  ”no-smoking” signs all over the hotel.  They smoke everywhere as-if it is their homes, with no regards for others.  Occasionally if you’re unlucky, you would enter the elevator to find clouds of smoke and walk out, smelling as-if you were a smoker.  Next observation – they have no regard for queues and think nothing of cutting infront of you.  You’re ignored if you make a fuss and you end up feeling like an idiot for ranting over something small.  Now imagine it happening to you, several more times.  

For someone who hasn’t even visited China, I’ll admit that my perception is flawed, definitely inbalanced.  For sure, there will be many Chinese who are better than the ones I’ve  observed but my perception was formed from observation of its people Outside China.  Maybe, when they are back in China, they are perfectly decent and law-abiding, don’t smoke indiscriminately because that could mean a fine or worst, jail time.  Or maybe, in China it is perfectly acceptable to jump queues and smoke anywhere.  Everyone’s perception of social norms may differ, shaped by their environment.

In his attempt to explain why the Chinese are the way they are, someone asked me to imagine being repressed for most of my life.  And then to get a chance to experience what it feels like to live freely, without the kind of restrictions that you’ve only known… how would you behave?

Cirque Du Soleil – Zaia

I heard of /saw Cirque du Soleil a few years back, from a documentary on one of its production.  The show was somewhat mysterious and captivated me.   Unfortunately for me, all its shows then were showing in the West. 

Luckily for us in Asia, Cirque du Soleil came to Venetian Macau with Zaia.  The show has been running since Aug 08.  Ticket prices start from MOP388 for the lowest category.  I caught the show last weekend and it was an experience.  The show is made up of different acrobatic segments and if compared with previous acrobatic shows that I’ve seen, these were not  more different or better.  However what made the whole experience a WOW was the lighting effects, the singing and sound effects, showmen/women floating or flying overhead.  In short, the show engaged all my senses and made the experience, somewhat complete.   The only thing that I found quite irritating were the 2 clowns… but then they were not for my benefit.

Here’s the Youtube video on Zaia: